Different phulkaris and their significance

The traditional way of making phulkari was on a thick cotton fabric called khaddar. Generally, four colours of khaddar were used and they all had different kinds of importance - white used by old women or widows, red used by young girls and brides-to-be, black and blue were for daily use. The khaddar was covered all over with striking floral patterns. 

There are different types of phulkari. They differ on basis like colour, work, and significance in society.                    

phulkari dupatta with bagh embroidery 

Bagh - 

The phulkari that is totally covered with embroidery is known as bagh or garden. Completing this piece can take an entire year and also requires a lot of patience. 

Thirma - 

Thirma's distinguishing feature is that its made on white khaddar. This type of phulkari symbolizes purity and is therefore, often worn by elderly women or widows. 

Darshan Dwar - 

Darshan Dwar is a special type of phulkari made to be offered at gurudwaras. It was generally made in East Punjab and included animal and human figures along with floral patterns. 

Vari-da-bagh - 

Vari-da-bagh was given as a gift to a bride by her in-laws upon entering her new home. It was always made on reddish-orange khaddar having embroidery with only a single golden or orange coloured silk thread all over except on the borders. 

Chope -
This type of phulkari is made by the maternal grandmother of a bride. She start making it as the girl child is born. It has the same design on both sides of the cloth and is made by using the holbein stitch. Chope is used for wrapping a bride after a ritual bath on the wedding day and therefore, its size was more than any other phulkari.

chope phulkari 

Panchranga bagh -
Panchranga means five colours. This bagh had embroideries done using five different colours. 

However, handmade phulkaris have now almost disappeared and more industrially made phulkaris can be seen in the market.

Hopefully, the phulkari making tradition keeps going on.




References-

1. Kaur, Ramandeep and Ramandeep Kaur. "Phulkari – A Rich Heritage Of Punjab". My India. N.p., 2017. Web. 17 Jan. 2017. http://www.mapsofindia.com/my-india/history/phulkari-a-rich-heritage-of-punjab

2. Naik, Shailaja D. Traditional Embroideries Of India. 1st ed. Print.