Different phulkaris and their significance

The traditional way of making phulkari was on a thick cotton fabric called khaddar. Generally, four colours of khaddar were used and they all had different kinds of importance - white used by old women or widows, red used by young girls and brides-to-be, black and blue were for daily use. The khaddar was covered all over with striking floral patterns. 

There are different types of phulkari. They differ on basis like colour, work, and significance in society.                    

phulkari dupatta with bagh embroidery 

Bagh - 

The phulkari that is totally covered with embroidery is known as bagh or garden. Completing this piece can take an entire year and also requires a lot of patience. 

Thirma - 

Thirma's distinguishing feature is that its made on white khaddar. This type of phulkari symbolizes purity and is therefore, often worn by elderly women or widows. 

Darshan Dwar - 

Darshan Dwar is a special type of phulkari made to be offered at gurudwaras. It was generally made in East Punjab and included animal and human figures along with floral patterns. 

Vari-da-bagh - 

Vari-da-bagh was given as a gift to a bride by her in-laws upon entering her new home. It was always made on reddish-orange khaddar having embroidery with only a single golden or orange coloured silk thread all over except on the borders. 

Chope -
This type of phulkari is made by the maternal grandmother of a bride. She start making it as the girl child is born. It has the same design on both sides of the cloth and is made by using the holbein stitch. Chope is used for wrapping a bride after a ritual bath on the wedding day and therefore, its size was more than any other phulkari.

chope phulkari 

Panchranga bagh -
Panchranga means five colours. This bagh had embroideries done using five different colours. 

However, handmade phulkaris have now almost disappeared and more industrially made phulkaris can be seen in the market.

Hopefully, the phulkari making tradition keeps going on.




References-

1. Kaur, Ramandeep and Ramandeep Kaur. "Phulkari – A Rich Heritage Of Punjab". My India. N.p., 2017. Web. 17 Jan. 2017. http://www.mapsofindia.com/my-india/history/phulkari-a-rich-heritage-of-punjab

2. Naik, Shailaja D. Traditional Embroideries Of India. 1st ed. Print.

The birth of phulkari

There a lot of theories as to how Phulkari came into practice. Some theories suggest that this craft migrated from Persian art and resembles a Persian embroidery known as 'Gulkari' which also means flower work. Another theory suggests that phulkari was made in the famous Punjabi folklore of Heer and Ranjha written by Waris Shah. 

An imagery of Heer wearing a phulkari dupatta

However, the strongest theory is that this craft was brought by the Jat tribes of east Punjab who were basically peasants who migrated from central Asia. In early days, phulkari was a reflection of the routine and regular life of a Punjabi woman. These women had gained such expertise that they could make even a mediocre phulkari look exquisite. There was full freedom of creativity and the motifs used represented the values of Punjab.

In the past as soon as a girl was born, the mother and grandmother would start embroidering Baghs (a type of phulkari) which were then given to the girl at the time of her marriage. Many folk songs of Punjab also indicate the emotional attachment of a girl with the phulkari given to her by her mother or grandmother or aunts. 

A phulkari chaddar used at the time of marriage

Phulkari still continues to be an integral part of auspicious occasions such as marriage ceremonies and is still synonymous to Punjab and its culture.





References-
1.Embroidery on Indian bridal wear | Phulkari from Punjab N.p., 2017. Web. 17 Jan. 2017.  http://www.marrymeweddings.in/wpblog/embroidery-on-indian-bridal-wear-phulkari-from-punjab.html

2. Pedia, Team. "Phulkari: Traditional Embroidery From Punjab | Utsavpedia". Utsavpedia. N.p., 2017. Web. 17 Jan. 2017.

When my heart fell for Phulkari...

Anyone who has grown up in a colourful country like India knows how we breathe, live, wear and tear multitudes of different crafts. Right from the first colourful rattler that a baby holds to that beautiful dupatta an Indian bride proudly adorns, the various forms of Indian crafts have always surrounded our existence. But sadly, the omnipresence of these different art forms only dilute their importance in our lives. We wow them when people from foreign lands praise them and then, back in the grind, they become part of the routine lives we lead.

In order to learn more about the art and craft forms of India, I visited the craft museum, Dilli Haat and a few other local places to get a look at different kinds of works. The warli and madhubani paintings,the pattachitra, the chikankari and the bidriware surely stunned me but my heart was stuck on only one thing: PHULKARI.

The word 'Phulkari' literally translates to flower work. Belonging to the state of Punjab, this form of embroidery has always been a part of important and auspicious occasions such as weddings and festivals. It is like an embroidered shawl but very vibrant and attractive. 

phulkari dupatta with bagh embroidery

The main characteristics of this embroidery are the use of darn stitch on the wrong side of cloth with coloured silk thread. Finding its first mentions in Punjabi folklore of Heer and Ranjha, owning a Phulkari is a dream for every Punjabi girl.